Gulab Jamun

(cake-like fried milk balls in scented syrup). Combine the water and sugar in a 3 quart/litre pan over moderate heat and stir constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Raise the heat to high, and boil for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the rose water or essence, and set aside. Pour ghee to a depth of 2 1/2 - 3 inches in any deep-frying vessel at least 10" in diameter. (A bowl-shaped karai or wok makes the best use of the frying medium.) Place over very low heat while making your dough. Brush a plate with a film of oil. Place the milk powder and flour on a sheet of waxed paper or in a small bowl and mix thoroughly. Combine the warm milk and 1 tsp ghee or butter in a large mixing bowl. While sprinkling in the dry mixture with one hand, stir with your other hand to quickly mix into a pliable dough. Working quickly, wash and dry your hands and rub them with a film of oil, Divide the dough into 24 portions and, exerting gentle pressure, roll each portion between your palms into a smooth ball. Place the balls on a plate. Raise the heat to moderately low and when the ghee reaches 215F/102C, slip in the balls, one by one. They will sink to the bottom of the pan, but do not try to move them. Instead, gently shake the pan to keep the balls from browning on just one side. After about 5mins, the balls will rise to the surface. Now they must be gently and constantly agitated with a wooden spoon to ensure even browning. After 5mins, the temperature should increase to 220F/104C; after 10mins, to 225F/107C; after 15mins, to 230F/110C. After 25 mins, the balls should be golden brown and the temperature between 245F-250F/118C-121C. Remove one ball and slip it into the syrup. If it does not collapse within 3 mins, add the remaining balls. Otherwise, fry the balls for about 5 mins more. The balls should soak in the syrup for at least 2 hours before serving, and may be stored, well sealed and refridgerated, for up to 4 days. Return to room temperature or warm before serving. The dough for this dish takes only minutes to assemble, but the balls must be fried very slowly under carefully controlled temperatures. Some recipes increase the flour content in order to minimize the importance of the heat regulation; but the less flour there is in the dough, the better the quality of the gulab jamun. If the balls are browned too quickly or not fried long enough, they tend to collapse in the sugar syrup. Makes 24