Pastrami

With a trussing needle or a large darning needle threaded with twine, take a stitch through the narrow end of the meat, Bring out both ends of the string and make a loop about 3 inches long for hanging. Mix together thoroughly the salt, brown sugar, ginger, pepper, garlic, and coriander. Rub the mixture into every part of the meat's surface, massaging it well and coating it evenly. Wrap the meat in aluminum) foil and then enclose it in a plastic bag. Refrigerate for 8 to 12 days, turning the package daily or as often as you think of it. Remove the seasoned meat from the package, patting onto it any seasonings that may have fallen off. Hang it by its cord loop in a cool, breezy spot (70 degrees or less is ideal) or in front of an electric fan; let dry for 24 hours. Remove the shelves from the smoker, hang an oven thermometer in it, and preheat it following the manufacturer's instructions (or, lacking instructions, preheat for 45 minutes), adding a painful of presoaked hickory or other hardwood chips (see page 31) after about 30 minutes. When smoke begins to emerge from the vent, hang the pastrami in the smoker, close the door, and smoke steadily for from 2 to 4 hours, depending on the heat your smoker produces (2 hours will be enough if the temperature is as high as 150 degrees) and the degree of smokiness you like; smoke the longer time if the temperature inside the smoker is in the 100- to 120-degree range. Cool the pastrami, then wrap and refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 or 3 days before cooking. To cook: Cover the pastrami with a generous amount of cold water and simmer very gently until completely tender, at least 2 hours; the exact time will depend on the thickness of the meat. Cool partially in the cooking water, then either serve at once or drain, cool, and refrigerate, wrapped. To reheat cooked pastrami, slice thin (cut on the bias slightly as you would flank steak) and steam briefly until hot through