Quince Jelly

(GELEE DE COING). Prepare six 8-ounce jelly jars. Rub the quinces briskly with a towel to remove any down on the skin, if there is any. (Don't peel them; the skin is important for the jelly.) Cut the quinces in half, then using a melon ball maker, remove the white core and the seeds, and reserve them. Tie the seeds and the cores together in a piece of cheesecloth. Place the fruit and the seed bundle in a large heavy stockpot. Add water to cover by about 1 inch so the quinces are floating slightly but not wallowing. Cover, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat so the liquid is simmering merrily. Cook, partially covered so very little liquid evaporates, until the quinces can be pierced easily with a metal skewer, 25 to 40 minutes depending on the fruit. While the quinces are cooking, press on the seed bundle often to extract the pectin. Drain, reserving the liquid and the seed bundle. Measure out 6-1/4 cups liquid and return it and the seed bundle to the pot. Add the sugar, stir, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so the liquid is boiling steadily but not wildly, and cook, stirring and pressing on the bag of seeds, until the liquid thickens, anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes. (To test for consistency, drizzle some jelly on a cold plate, place it in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 minutes, and then check to see if it has thickened enough that it won't run all over the plate. If it is still very runny, continue cooking until it thickens to your liking.) If the liquid hasn't jelled within 30 minutes, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice and cook until it jells, an additional 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the jelly from the heat and strain it, if necessary, so it is perfectly clear. Ladle the jelly into the sterilized jars and seal according to manufacturer's instructions. Makes 6 8-ounce jars Note: The lemon juice is really only necessary if the quince jelly doesn't "take" within the allotted time.